REVIEW · EDINBURGH
Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues!
Book on Viator →Operated by Historic Edinburgh Tours · Bookable on Viator
Old Edinburgh has a dark sense of humor. This private, 2-hour walk turns Greyfriars Kirkyard into a living set with archive imagery and stories built around Royals and Rogues; I love the smart, story-telling pace and the way the guide adjusts to your interests, but keep in mind it covers grim topics and you’ll be on your feet for a moderate walking route.
What makes it work is the small-group feel. You’ll chat as you go, see places most people miss, and get a local’s take on why Edinburgh looks the way it does—down to the streets that shaped power, crime, and punishment.
In This Review
- Key things I’d bet on
- Meeting at Greyfriars Kirkyard: starting the right kind of eerie
- Stop-by-stop: Greyfriars Bobby to the Royal Mile
- Stop 1: Greyfriars Kirkyard (about 15 minutes)
- Stop 2: Grassmarket + Candlemaker Row (about 25 minutes)
- Stop 3: Royal Mile stretch (about 40 minutes)
- Tolbooth Prison and execution spots: the dark thread through Old Town
- Cowgate: the Old Town lane most people skip
- University of Edinburgh: Burke and Hare and a finale with a literal bang
- How the tour actually feels: Robert’s pace, props, and humor
- Pace, shoes, and how much walking you’ll do
- Price and value: what $117.84 buys you (and why it can be worth it)
- Who this tour suits best
- Should you book Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues?
- FAQ
- How long is the private Old Edinburgh tour?
- Where does the tour start and where does it end?
- Is this tour private?
- What language is the tour offered in?
- What topics and sites are covered during the walk?
- Are there admission fees at the stops?
- What happens if the weather is poor?
- What is the cancellation window for a full refund?
Key things I’d bet on
- Start inside Greyfriars Kirkyard, so the atmosphere is already on when you begin
- Archive photos and props help you picture Old Town life, not just hear facts
- Hidden lanes and lesser-seen viewpoints show up thanks to your guide’s local map in their head
- A private pace means you can slow down, ask questions, or skip nothing you care about
- Gory-but-historical stops: execution sites, Tolbooth Prison, and the Burke and Hare story
- End near South Bridge, with an easy return to the rest of your day
Meeting at Greyfriars Kirkyard: starting the right kind of eerie

The tour begins at the gates of Greyfriars Kirkyard in the heart of Edinburgh Old Town, right by Greyfriars Place (EH1 2QQ). That choice matters. Starting in a graveyard lets the guide set the mood fast, then you move outward through the city’s layers like they’re stacked pages.
You’ll also get a mobile ticket and a straightforward setup: it’s offered in English and run as a private tour/activity, so it’s just you and your group. Duration is about 2 hours, so you’re not signing up for an all-day hike.
You can also read our reviews of more walking tours in Edinburgh
Stop-by-stop: Greyfriars Bobby to the Royal Mile

You’ll feel the route build like a story. The plan is simple: begin with the famous graveyard legend, then slide into Edinburgh’s street-life, power politics, and punishments.
Stop 1: Greyfriars Kirkyard (about 15 minutes)
You start just inside the main gate at Greyfriars. Expect the Edinburgh version of a loyal dog tale: Greyfriars Bobby. There are different versions of the story, and the guide’s approach is to give you what you need, then let you decide which version sounds most believable to you.
Practical thought: this is a relatively short stop, so if you want extra time here for photos or quiet reading, ask your guide early. A private format is made for that.
Stop 2: Grassmarket + Candlemaker Row (about 25 minutes)
Next up is the Grassmarket area, moving via Candlemaker Row. This stretch is where you’ll understand why Edinburgh kept flipping between respectability and chaos.
A big focus here is how a major Scottish wedding mattered to the city—and how the route of the pre-wedding party connects to what you see on the streets today. It’s one of those details that makes the stones feel less decorative and more purposeful.
Stop 3: Royal Mile stretch (about 40 minutes)
The heart of Old Town storytelling comes along the Royal Mile, with multiple stops and quick turns that keep the pace lively.
Here’s what you can expect the guide to connect:
- Mary, Queen of Scots spent part of her childhood here, and you’ll visit places tied to that period.
- You’ll stop at a small courtyard with a royal link.
- You’ll hear the strange tale of Deacon William Brodie, including his hanging.
- You’ll get a short, usable history of St Giles before standing near the site of the old Mercat Cross.
- From there, you’ll connect the area to Prince Charles Edward Stewart (Bonnie Prince Charlie) and learn why that location matters in his story.
- You’ll finish with an atmospheric close where the street feels like it’s holding its breath.
If you like history that’s tied to specific corners—like you can point and say that’s where the story happened—this Royal Mile section is the main reason to book.
You can also read our reviews of more private tours in Edinburgh
Tolbooth Prison and execution spots: the dark thread through Old Town
The tour doesn’t pretend Edinburgh’s past was polite. Along the walk, you’ll hear about the capital’s gory past, including visits to three former execution spots and the Tolbooth Prison site, tied to Scotland’s most infamous assassination.
You’ll also get a look at Edinburgh Castle from its hilltop perch while the guide places it into the bigger picture of power and control. Stories here include major figures like Mary Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, and Robert Burns—not just as names, but as characters in the city’s changing mood.
Tone check: the material is grim by nature. If you’re sensitive to crime-and-punishment stories, this might feel heavy even though it’s handled with humor and context. The good news is you’re not trapped in a lecture; it’s built into a walk with room to ask your guide to steer the conversation.
Cowgate: the Old Town lane most people skip
One stop that I especially like in this tour idea is Cowgate. It’s often ignored by other walks, which means you get a different Edinburgh—more working-class, more everyday survival.
Here the focus is Victorian poor life. You’ll learn what it was like to live with tighter space, harsher conditions, and less control over your future. It’s not just tragedy for tragedy’s sake. It helps you understand the city’s later reputation as both charming and difficult.
Time-wise it’s short (about 10 minutes), so it lands as a sharp contrast after the Royal Mile’s bigger-name stories. If you want more detail, that’s the moment to request it.
University of Edinburgh: Burke and Hare and a finale with a literal bang
This is where the tour leans into Scotland’s most notorious murder story. At the University of Edinburgh, you’ll visit two stops tied to the university area.
First, you’ll cover the Burke and Hare story—how those notorious murderers operated and why they were able to cause so much damage before the truth caught up. The guide may even wear a traditional Highland outfit, which adds a visual cue when the stories start feeling like theater.
Then comes the penultimate and final area near Old College. Depending on whether Old College is open to you, the guide may take you inside. Either way, the setting looks incredible now. The story shared there is described as explosive, literally—so expect a dramatic historical twist rather than a gentle wrap-up.
Why this section feels valuable: it shows Edinburgh wasn’t only castles and coronations. It also had institutions, bodies of knowledge, and the dark corners where people exploited others—at human scale, not just royal scale.
How the tour actually feels: Robert’s pace, props, and humor
A ton of tours list landmarks. This one tries to make you see the past. The guide uses archive imagery—old photos and photos-like references—to help you picture how streets and buildings looked back then. There are also props and pictures that make the timeline easier to follow, especially on the tougher subjects.
The pace is also a selling point. You don’t rush from stop to stop just to hit checkboxes. The guide can tailor the walk based on your interests, and that matters in Edinburgh where every corner can turn into a side story.
I also like the way the guide uses humor without turning the past into a joke. In the best moments, it’s slightly irreverent. You laugh, then you realize why the story matters.
If you can choose, look for the guide named Robert. Multiple accounts highlight his teaching background, his communication style, and the fact he asks about interests at the start and adapts during the walk.
Pace, shoes, and how much walking you’ll do
This is a walking tour through Old Town streets. Even with a moderate physical fitness level requirement, you should assume cobbles and uneven paths. The upside is the tour is structured so you’re not grinding nonstop—each stop includes a defined time window, and your guide can match your group’s pace.
Weather matters. The experience requires good weather, and if it’s canceled for poor conditions, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund.
So what should you wear? Comfortable walking shoes you trust on stone sidewalks. Bring a layer. Edinburgh weather can change its mind quickly, even in seasons when the skies look friendly.
Price and value: what $117.84 buys you (and why it can be worth it)
The price is $117.84 per group for a private tour, up to 1 person (so you can be solo). That pricing structure is key. You’re not paying per ticket like a big group bus tour. You’re buying time with a local guide and getting flexibility in what you focus on.
If you’re traveling with someone who loves history but also likes to steer the conversation, private format can be a smart value. Even solo, you get a guided route through major Old Town points—Greyfriars, the Royal Mile area, Cowgate, and the University area—plus the connecting stories that turn each site into something you can remember.
Also note what’s not a dealbreaker: the scheduled stops are listed as admission ticket free, so you’re not stacking surprise site fees on top of your guide cost.
Who this tour suits best
I’d point this tour at you if:
- you want a story-driven introduction to Old Town Edinburgh, not just a sightseeing checklist
- you like the “Royal Mile meets crime and punishment” style of history
- you’d rather get off the main tourist paths and into the side streets (like Cowgate)
- you appreciate guides who use photos/props to make old scenes clearer
This might be less ideal if:
- you dislike crime-related history and executions (the tour intentionally covers that theme)
- you want big views and minimal walking—this is mainly about streets and stories, not scenic overlooks all day
Should you book Private Old Edinburgh Tour – Walk in the footsteps of Royals and Rogues?
If your goal is to understand Edinburgh as a place where power, legend, and punishment all share the same streets, I think it’s an easy yes. The tour’s biggest strength is the way it uses archive imagery, a guide who adapts to your interests (Robert is often praised for this), and a route that includes both famous landmarks and the areas people forget.
Book it if you want a compact, high-impact history walk that ends near South Bridge and leaves you with real context for what you’ll see next.
If your top priority is light, upbeat sightseeing, or if you’d rather avoid dark stories, you may want a different themed walk.
FAQ
How long is the private Old Edinburgh tour?
It lasts about 2 hours.
Where does the tour start and where does it end?
It starts at Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, Greyfriars Place, Edinburgh EH1 2QQ. It typically ends on South Bridge in Edinburgh, about ten minutes from the starting point.
Is this tour private?
Yes. It’s a private tour/activity, and only your group participates. The price is listed per group (up to 1).
What language is the tour offered in?
The tour is offered in English.
What topics and sites are covered during the walk?
You’ll cover Greyfriars Kirkyard, the Grassmarket area, multiple stops along the Royal Mile, Cowgate, and stops connected to the University of Edinburgh. The stories include Mary Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Robert Burns, execution spots, Tolbooth Prison, Deacon William Brodie, and Burke and Hare.
Are there admission fees at the stops?
The scheduled stops are listed as admission ticket free.
What happens if the weather is poor?
The experience requires good weather. If it’s canceled due to poor weather, you’ll be offered a different date or a full refund.
What is the cancellation window for a full refund?
You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. If you cancel less than 24 hours before the start time, the amount paid will not be refunded.































